Rome to Florence

 

We spend our last morning in Rome wandering the marketplaces, taking in the sounds and energy of this somewhat crazy city. It’s vibrant, mind boggling and thrilling at the same time, yet there are pockets of calm where you can hide for a while before heading out again. Our hotel room turns out to be a sanctuary where the view from the window is a very serene glimpse on inner city life in Rome. Beyond that is utter chaos but in an exciting way. You are always on your guard while walking the streets as the traffic never stops and generally only slows a little when you look to cross the roads.

Our stroll takes us past the Trevi Fountain and its finally full of water but also packed with people. We experienced it empty a few nights ago and it was underwhelming to say the least but, now full of water, the beauty of the fountain is more obvious. From the forecourt it is hard to appreciate the view due to the large crowd but once down on the same level as the fountain there is a stillness that surprises us, almost a peacefulness. 

Its time to do some shopping with Stacey eager to pick up trinkets from the local stores and markets. We start our walking again and come upon a marketplace where there is a statue of a hooded figure standing above the vendors within the piazza.

It turns out to be Giordano Bruno, a figure from the 1500s, who was in conflict with the Catholic Church due to his views on science which were not aligned with the church’s philosophies. For this he was burned at the stake after being tried for heresy. The statue is interesting in that it has been positioned so that Bruno’s back is forever turned against the Vatican.

After some shopping therapy we head back to the hotel to pick up our bags and say goodbye to our hosts. They have been brilliant, providing us with tips for things to see and where to eat that have made our stay that much more enjoyable.

We head to the train station and hop on the high speed train to Florence. The Frecciarossa starts off slow but accelerates to nearly 250Kmph during the trip. That fact can be verified via the overhead displays that proudly tell you that you are approaching breakneck speed!

The train trip takes about one and a half hours but seems shorter as the scenery flashes by the window.

We arrive in Florence and find our way to our accommodation which is a B&B run by a diminutive lady named Anna who lays down the grounds rules for staying here. Its a mixture of practicality, charm and quirkiness that we have come to love in Europe. Think gangs of light switches that seem to do nothing while some lights have no switch at all. Seems that as they breakdown, you simply replace them with another instead of fixing the original. Once we have dropped off our bags and unpacked we head out for a walk of Florence to see the sights.

Florence is a breath of fresh air compared to the craziness of Rome. The first piazza we happen upon has grass, though you aren’t allowed to use it, so is not the same hard surfaced piazzas in the capital. We take our time looking at the various buildings and their styles and it becomes evident that Florence loves to embellish some of their building in a rather gaudy way. 

At the heart of the city is the il Duomo Complex which, with its large domed roof and tall bell tower, makes a massive statement. The finishing however will leave you either loving it or hating, there seems to be no in between. It has white, green and pink marble inlays and started life in a gothic style but has been updated over the years and seems to have lost its way. Not overly pleasing to my eye but others seem to adore it. I’ll let you judge for yourself.

We walk through the various streets and piazzas while heading towards the river Arno. Every major building or open area seems to be accompanied by an array of statues ranging from mythical Perseus, who slayed Medusa, to scientists and philosophers such as Leonardo and Galileo. Its impressive to see the names and read about their lives, discoveries and theories.

We follow the river until we meet the Ponte Vecchio, the famous markets on the bridge, and work our way through the crowds all the while being set upon by hawkers and sales people selling everything from leather bags to gold rings and chains.

It’s been another big day so we head back to our B&B stopping at a local bar, la Boite (the box), for a couple of cool drinks before moving on to a restaurant for dinner and then retiring for the night.

More to see tomorrow with a trip to the Palazzo Pitti and the de Bobilo Gardens planned.

 

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